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An artwork resembling a planet dominates the dining room. Look closely and the ‘planet’ contains overlapping images of cuisine, which gather together to form a picture of the Earth. ‘Dialogue with the Earth’ is, indeed, the theme of this restaurant. The experience of growing up amid the beauty of nature shaped the bold world view of Hajime Yoneda. The digitised recipes and detailed cuisine attest to his experience as a system engineer. Cuisine that draws inspiration from all Creation is imbued with love and respect for nature.

Hideaki Matsuo expresses traditional Japanese culture, guided by the traditional cycle of twenty-four seasons. The chef’s messages on the menu are designed to conjure up scenes of nature in front of guests’ eyes, while seasonal flavours and annual events are woven into the cuisine in truly elegant ways. At an Expo 2025 Osaka, Kansai, Japan event, Matsuo showcased Osaka food culture to the world. He warmly welcomes trainees from overseas, dedicating himself to the development and progress of the industry.

‘Taian’ means ‘big hut’, and indeed this little place has a huge spirit. Recalling the apparent paradox of the tea ceremony, in which a small, spare space is made to feel boundless, the cosy and clean décor is exceptional in its modesty. The cuisine crystallises the skill and passion of Hitoshi Takahata, while the contrast between outward appearance and inner content is a reflection of his philosophy. Cuisine with depths of flavour satisfies the soul.

Out of childhood experiences and the landscapes of rural valleys, the chef creates cuisine that reverberates in all five senses. The spectacle of colourful arrangements, the sound and texture of each bite, the aroma, and of course the taste all harmonise and sizzle as one course follows another. The couple who run the kitchen deliver an illustrated message to the table as a sign of the season.

Over half a century since he opened his restaurant, Yoshifumi Mori remains vigorously engaged in food preparation. His passion seems unquenchable: with rice flour and salt, he created a seasoning that melts away like snow. He makes wine and even grows rice. Scouring every region of Japan, the chef seeks out unknown ingredients and introduces them to the world. All this has led to Mori being honoured by the Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries. Like a steel plate polished until gleaming, he continues to sharpen his culinary sensibilities.

A willow tree bending to describe an arc is the symbol of the restaurant and the meaning of its name. In this modern sukiya-type interior, the arc bends toward a wickerwork ceiling. Koryu’s location on the river’s edge reminds you that Osaka is known as the ‘City of Water’. The aim of the house is to be true to its Naniwa (Osaka) roots. The sumptuously arranged “Naniwa” sashimi platter is a remarkable sight. Traditional vegetables also befit the Osaka cuisine. Like the willow tree, Koryu applies a supple creative spirit to a solid foundation.

Yusuke Takada unravels the mysteries of the classics while pursuing the modern. Takada is the author of a new French cuisine, one imbued with the essence of Japan. Takada’s aim in using traditional ingredients such as kudzu vine, tofu skin, miso and wasabi is to proclaim the goodness of foodstuffs grown and raised in Japan. Cultural elements from Osaka and his native Amami Ōshima weave together into a story that is unique and fascinating.

The crockery forms an essential part of the cuisine of Miyamoto. From a collection years in the making, each item is carefully selected to complement the item served on it. The arrangements remain simple to let this harmony shine, and there is a refreshing honesty in the chef’s unstinting use of ingredients. He honours the customs of Japanese cuisine yet cooks unbound by theory; he aspires to run a restaurant where he freely creates what is simply delicious. House-made udon is prepared according to the season. The purity of white rice cleanses the soul.

The tempura fried by the chef as his heart dictates comes out refined. To bring the flavour of carefully selected ingredients, the main oil of choice is Taihaku sesame oil. The coating is infused with bubbles, giving it a light texture. In a distinctive presentation style, seafood and vegetables that work well together are served in alternating pairs. The final dish is the guest’s choice of tendon, tempura over rice; tencha, tendon steeped in roasted green tea; or tenmusu, onigiri filled with shrimp tempura. The chef does not neglect training the next generation, either, entrusting understudies with running his branch restaurants.

The chef interprets the seasons through kaiseki, adding twists and tricks that make the cuisine his own. To express each season, appetisers are accompanied by leaves collected on hill and dale and a slim strip of paper is inscribed with a seasonal phrase. White rice, cooked in clay pots, is specially selected and treated. Rice grown in serpentinite soil, with its rich mineral content, is seasoned with salt and soy sauce to bring out umami and flavour. In a unique touch, scorched rice is served like a rice cracker. The basics of Japanese cuisine are safely guarded, yet imagination has room to run.

Techniques from every genre of Japanese cuisine are used for tempura; items may be pre-cooked or lightly scored and seasoned to bring out their natural flavour before frying. Keen to highlight Kansai ingredients, the chef stocks octopus, pike conger and tilefish. Osaka flourished as a centre of cotton production, so the chef cooks with a unique cottonseed oil in solidarity with producers. A beacon of Naniwa food culture to the world, with imaginative twists.

The stately tea-house interior and Japanese-style painting of the spray from a waterfall enfold guests in an atmosphere of tranquillity. Proclaiming a no-nonsense approach to sushi, the two chefs restrict seasoning and other preparations to the bare minimum. They add no sugar to the sushi rice, the better to draw out the natural sweetness of fish and rice. Tuna is marinated in soy sauce only briefly; conger eel dressed in sauce that is only slightly sweet. As they form sushi by hand, both chefs focus on the basics of rice, wasabi, vinegar and fish.

Scrupulous attention is paid to the ceremonial space, cuisine, serving vessels and sense of the seasons. The chef learned his guiding principles at a restaurant in Hozenji Alley. Entrusted with preparing the appetiser platters, he became schooled in the knowledge and aesthetics of Japanese cuisine. Aiming for artistic beauty in all aspects, he grows his own flowers to decorate the sukiya interior and collects seasonal serving vessels to delight guests. Technique, experience and sensibility all merge to create assortments of dishes that celebrate the seasons and their festivals.

Yugen means ‘mysterious profundity’, grace whose depths can never be plumbed. It connotes the depths of Japanese cuisine, a product of constant refinement through the ages. Keisuke Mifune puts on display the skills and instincts he honed at a ryotei. He pays attention to combinations of ingredients and dishware, expressing the changing of the seasons through his menu. A Fukuoka native, the chef furnishes the bounty of Kyushu in the form of seafood from the Genkai Sea and the Goto Islands.

Long experience at ristoranti scattered across Italy honed this chef’s culinary instincts, leading him to dishes that blend rustic charm with refinement. Confidence particularly shines in his pasta presentations. Bavettine of dried mullet roe and lime is a signature dish he has served for years. Arranged to mimic a mimosa flower in bloom, the presentation is delightful. Each item is simple yet distinctive.

The gastronomy of Chef Tatsuhiro Takayama blends a passion for learning from nature with a modern sensibility. To attune his work to the sense of the seasons, he adds layers of texture. His spring ‘Sakuraniku, Sansai’ accents the bitterness of spring vegetables with the texture of buckwheat groats. The menu lists only the ingredients, as a mark of respect to the foodstuff producers. Natural rock tables and wooden ornamental plates eloquently convey the chef’s love of nature.

Food conveys the seasons and culture of Japan. The curved earthen walls were fashioned by a plaster craftsman; the Japanese serving-ware was made in collaboration with contemporary ceramic artists. The chef draws inspiration for his cuisine from the strong relationships he fosters with food producers. Consommé made with essence of vegetables and fish is paired with house-made fermented foods. Working closely with producers, the chef creates French cuisine unique to Japan.

The name is a mashup of the name of the couple who founded the restaurant and the phrase ‘bumbu-ryodo’, ‘accomplished in both literary and military arts’. The phrase expresses the spirit of the chef, who devotes himself to both cooking and service. The third-generation chef commands the kitchen, guarding the flavours inherited from the first. Unmoved by an age that craves all things new, the chef passes on the handiwork and cuisine of the good old days. The simmered vegetable assortment is one example. With skilful knife work and carefully calibrated addition of dashi, the chef brings guests the flavours of the season.

The nameplate features calligraphy by Teiichi Yuki, a visionary who helped elevate the status of Japanese cuisine. The second-generation chef upholds the spirit that Yuki, founder of the Kitcho group, inherited from his mentor. The menu reflects the beauty of the seasons and conveys the culture of Japan. Gorgeous hassun appetiser platters incorporate elements of seasonal celebrations, placing traditional culinary craftmanship on full display. Inside the house, which is built in the tea ceremony room style, the decor is simple and rustic. The aesthetics of Japanese cuisine live and breathe in unbroken tradition.

‘Basque cuisine you can taste only at Alarde’ is the theme, as the chef matches recipes studied in the Basque Country to ingredients found in Japan. His passion shines in the wagyu beef cooked in a stone oven. Fire is built from charcoal and firewood, then grapevines are added to wreathe the beef in smoky aromas. While you’re waiting for the meat to cook, treat yourself to some pinchos or mixed rice. Experience the world of Basque food culture.

The natural deliciousness of ingredients is expressed, mindful of the characteristics of each. Creative combinations weave a cuisine that lingers in the memory. The signature dish, ‘Caviar, Squid and Aubergine’, brings out a unique flavour profile through the interplay of saltiness and sweetness. ‘Bakuretsu Gyokai’, meaning ‘Exploding Seafood’, is a dish that combines baked risotto with soup of fish and shellfish, its humorous name conjuring an image of billowing aroma and concentrated flavour.

This restaurant explores the possibilities of Chinese cooking and wine. The name of the shop incorporates the phrases ‘Chinois-Fume’ and ‘Chinese Futurism’, announcing a cuisine that fuses the two. This spirit is reflected in the amuse-bouche arranged on a display shelf for tea utensils, tofu skin and vegetables in Peking Duck style, sauces fragrant with Shaoxing wine. Applying French techniques to Chinese fare, the house experiments with wine pairings. The menu, enigmatic and poetic, lends a playful mood.

The inspiration for the name ‘Différence’, is a desire to provide a space to spend time away from the quotidian cares of life. The uniform white of the dining room, with its otherworldly milieu, reflects this aesthetic. The concept is ‘French with a sense of Japan’, so the focus is on food grown and raised in Japan. Desserts infused with vegetables to impart a sense of season and pastries combining two favourite Japanese confections, yokan and daifuku, are unique touches. Enjoy flavours and dining a little different from the ordinary.

The restaurant is tastefully appointed with the ambience of a tea house, with an elegant gate, garden path and waiting area. Chinese medicinal drinks served with waka poetry bring to mind the Kinki region’s history as a centre of medicinal wholesaling. Also telling a tale is the menu, whose chakaiseki offerings incorporate Osaka touches. Sembajiru wharf soup, with dashi drawn from vegetable offcuts, conveys respect for ingredients; tea poured by the chef soothes the soul. This is fare that conveys the richness of Japanese culture.

The star of the menu is the bounty of the Hokuriku region. Seafood is delivered from the chef’s native Ishikawa Prefecture; seafood from every part of Ishikawa express the shifting seasons: Noto abalone, Nanao egg cockles, Chirihama oysters, and Kanaiwa male snow crab. As he cooks on an earthen charcoal brazier, the chef holds forth on their particular qualities and the passion of the fishermen with whom he does business. The restaurant name derives from the historic Higashi Chaya district of Kanazawa. From behind the counter, the chef waxes eloquent on the charms of his birthplace.

The chef began to specialise in tempura when, as an apprentice at a Japanese restaurant, he was placed in charge of the fryer. The tatami-matted interior recalls ozashiki-tempura, the practice of frying tempura in front of guests seated on tatami mats around a low table . Having diligently studied flavour in Tokyo and technique in Osaka, the chef adopts ‘taking the best from east and west’ as his theme. Tempura pieces are fried in sesame oil and served with warm dipping sauce. Pairing wine with tempura is advocated here, as the acidity of champagne and white wine brings out the flavour of the tempura.

A Japanese restaurant at the foot of the Minoh mountains. The head chef weaves the turning of the seasons into his menu. Hassun platters are arranged on large plates using several small dishes, then garnished with leaves gathered on the mountainside. Tempura, prepared with rice oil, is light in texture. If you reserve a seat on the ground floor, the tempura master will fry each piece right before your eyes. Dine with relish on the bounty of nature, serenaded by the murmuring Minoh River.

French cuisine and organic wine, presented by a nature-loving couple. Welcoming you into their parlour are the chef, a disciple of classic gastronomy, and the proprietress, a florist. To present the ideal bistro the name implies, the couple decorate the casual interior with flowers, fresh in season like the ingredients. Vegetables come from the good earth of their home farm in Wakayama, linking city and countryside through cuisine.

The name is a diminutive of ‘Il Centro’, in tribute to Ristorante Il Centro in Piedmont, Italy, where the chef apprenticed. What he learned was how to express hometown flavours in a modern style, taking pride in farm produce with deep roots in the land. He overlays regional cuisines with the flavours of the Japanese seasons, refining them both. The handmade pasta he learned in northern Italy especially conveys his passion. Savour flavours born of the chef’s feelings and the climates of Japan and Italy.

Dinner at Iroha should be a once-in-a-lifetime experience, the chef decrees, so he lavishes his guests with the flavours of what’s in season. The extensive menu and the chef’s endless ingenuity testify to this commitment. An arranged sashimi dish is prepared using the techniques of skin searing, skin boiling, and kombu pickling. The popular beef cutlets are a hearty meat dish, ensuring that everyone leaves feeling satisfied. True to the restaurant’s name, which means ‘coloured leaves’, dishes are decorated with leaves of the season.

Curiosity drives the creative spirit that powers this restaurant. There are no standard menu items: the direction is always forwards, never looking back on past dishes. Technique honed at a ryotei overlays creativity learned at an old-school Osaka kappo. Hamo is deboned, producing a texture of luxuriant plumpness. New techniques create new taste sensations, so eel are salt-grilled, not dipped in sauce. Ingenuity is everywhere, yet the ingredients are always the star.

‘Kaishoku’ is a coined word expressing a wish that guests will delight in dining with all their hearts. Toshihiro Shimizu’s vigorously inquisitive mind drove him to study agriculture out of a desire to know all he could about ingredients. He taught himself so that he could craft his own menu. A single dish may pair seafood with vegetables to explore contrasts in flavours. House-made soba is created with toppings such as dried mullet roe or mixed tempura fritters that offer the flavour of each season.

Weave Kansai food culture and Chinese tradition together and you get Kamigatachuka. Ingredients from the Kinki region are prepared using Chinese and Japanese techniques; continuing the theme, items are served on Chinese and Japanese plates and bowls. Vegetarian cuisine, dubbed ‘Naniwa’ (‘vegetable garden’), brings to mind the Kawachi Plain’s fame as a vegetable-producing region. The fare is the self-expression of a chef who was born in Osaka and grew up in a family that ran a Chinese restaurant.

The Kitashinchi branch of Kashiwaya in Senriyama offers ryotei service in a counter-restaurant setting. The chef, who has devoted his career to Kashiwaya, strives above all for a sense of presence. His adroit knife skills make an eye-catching display. On days when he cooks with straw, guests can watch the flames rise through a small window. In a thoughtful touch, the blaze is isolated behind heat-resistant glass, sparing guests from the flow of smoke. Every item is prepared with a ryotei’s meticulous care.

The low-profile exterior, small billboard and stripped-down accoutrements express an understated Japanese architecture aesthetic. The goal here is cuisine of which one never tires. Rishiri kombu kelp is selected for the dashi stock drawn for soups, reassuring with its light flavour. Fermented seasonings are handmade fish sauces, provide the subtle seasoning that enhances other flavours. Relying on patient craftsmanship rather than fancy ingredients, Katamachi Kawaguchi impresses with technique and singular character.

Staff welcome guests with sprinkled water to banish defilement and with incense to purify the space. The restaurant serves tempura kaiseki featuring bounty of land and sea. Wanmono and sashimi are prepared with orthodox Japanese cuisine in mind; tempura is thinly battered and served one piece at a time. Handmade sweets and tea draw the meal to a close. Like leaves that change throughout the year, the choice of serving vessels and ingredients expresses the seasons.

The restaurant aspires to cheerful Chinese fare that delights with fun and surprises. The appetiser assortment offers a tour of China’s regions, each inspired by hometown cooking. A touch of variation appears in every dish: beef and green pepper stir-fry is cooked over low heat; crispy pork is wrapped in crepe. The word ‘Garan’ in the name means ‘a place where monks gather’, reflecting the house’s practice of serving everyone at once. After dinner, the guests assemble around a table to relax over Chinese tea and share the warmth of the moment together.

A dining room fit for a noble mansion, décor of stunning symmetry and graceful service by the waitstaff create a moment cocooned in splendour. Commanding the kitchen is Christophe Gibert, a native of Bretagne. Accustomed to life by the sea, Gibert makes extensive use of seaweed. His preparations, with their strong accent on sauces, convey his spirit of respect for classic cooking.

La Bécasse aspires to greet guests with something new and exciting every time they visit. Rather than follow past recipes, the restaurant enlivens familiar ingredients with creative preparation techniques and sauces. A sojourn in France taught the chef the importance of terroir, the characteristics of the land from which sprouts the character of each ingredient. To convey the blessings of each season, the chef visits markets daily, seeking new ways to reflect Japanese terroir through French cooking.

To mark its half-century anniversary, LE PONT DE CIEL broke new ground, converting to a ‘counter French’ format. The open kitchen buzzes with activity as cooks and serving staff attend customers. The key to the fare here is cooking with firewood. Vegetables are roasted, fish smoked, meat wrapped in flame. The name means ‘bridge across the sky’, reflecting the chef’s desire to foster a culture that connects a relaxing time with delicious cuisine.

Hanging in the kitchen is a framed calligraphy motto bearing the phrase ‘Hakuraku no ikko’ -a reference to distinguishing true quality. It reflects the chef’s wish to keep improving so as to earn the respect of his diners. For the chefs, the plain wood counter is the stage on which they perform as one cohesive unit. Food and dishware captivate with seasonal combinations. The hassun is especially attention-grabbing: beauty sculpted from the bounty of land and sea, where both rich and light coexist. Guests here are welcomed with carefully prepared dishes.

The second-generation owner-chef welcomes you to his shop tucked away in a residential quarter of Abeno. Though the interior is newly renovated to serve as the chef’s own stage, the exterior, passed down from his father, deliberately retains a Showa era look. With roots planted firmly in the local community, the chef takes care to source his fish from Osaka Bay and nearby seas. He rests his fish to draw out the flavour, accenting it again by serving it on mildly vinegared rice. The friendly air of the gentle chef brings back nostalgic memories of the neighbourhood sushi houses of old.

This is the place to sample modern Mexican cuisine. Respect for the traditions of the motherland are palpable as Japanese ingredients and modern techniques move the genre forward. Corn, the staple food, along with cacao and chili peppers, is sourced from Mexico, and, following tradition, the food is cooked over a wood-fired grill. Milpa is the name in the Nahuatl (Aztec) language for a farming system that enriches the earth; the chef likens cooking techniques to farming, cultivating a new Mexican culinary culture in Osaka.

At the start of the 21st century, when the ‘modern Spanish’ trend began, the chef was accumulating experience in Madrid and San Sebastián. Today he parlays Spain’s cuisine of many small dishes into a modern prix fixe menu. Refined tapas, arroz suffused with regional character and plancha-grilled items, flamed to bring out the natural flavour of each foodstuff, showcase the pride the chef takes in his work.

Located close to the beloved Osaka Temmangu Shrine, the ‘Yu’ in the restaurant’s name is a character in the name of the chef’s mentor. Apprenticing at an old-school Osaka kappo, the chef learned not only cooking skills but also the bold spirit of a chef who holds court behind the counter. Courteous yet charming, his gregarious manner keeps the conversation flowing. The format is omakase, but with the flexibility to indulge diners’ whims.

The chef’s creed is devotion to his craft heart and soul. Having learned this attitude to cooking from his mentor at Taian, where he apprenticed, he constantly burnishes his culinary skills through meticulous attention to ingredient selection, food preparation methods and use of dishware. One vital contributor to his menus is the charcoal flame. The chef’s experience speaks through his pan-seared sashimi and grilled dishes wreathed in aromatic smoke. Inventiveness and painstaking diligence create cuisine that impresses.

Dreaming up cuisine that matches the food to the guest is the mission of this Naniwa kappo. The menu’s called ‘Yuno’s omakase’ proclaiming a free-and-easy approach that strays from the norms of Japanese cuisine. Sashimi assortments are paired with onion dipping sauce or condiments; grilled items are dressed with vegetable sauces. Fishbone broth used in hot-pot fare attests to the restaurant’s spirit of wasting nothing. Come to enjoy the chef’s playful spirit and flavours of Osaka expressed through quality ingredients.

Nishitemma Ichigaya upholds the traditions of Osaka while incorporating new influences. Creative inspiration and painstaking attention to detail are the watchwords here. Use of ma-kombu kelp to enliven the broth of soup dishes pays tribute to Semba merchant food culture. Traditional vegetables of Osaka showcase the attractions of that great commercial city. From time to time, French methods are employed as well. The seafood with miso sauce américain is a flavour found only here.

Visible from the counter, the finely worked tin-plate bas-relief expresses the Japanese seasons: mists of spring, fireworks in summer, harvest moon in autumn, snowfall in winter. The star attractions of the menu are the hassun platters, beautifully arranged on seasonal themes to delight the eye. Leaves and flowers are arrayed with the sensitivity of a flower arrangement master, exuding taste and elegance. Sincerity conveyed through cuisine.

The chef never forgets his connection to his apprentice days. From his two mentors, he learned the basics of Japanese cuisine and the spirit of delighting diners. Years of experience are reflected in skilful work at counter and grill, convivial conversation, and creative food preparation. The restaurant’s name, Kitagawa, includes characters meaning ‘many’ and ‘joy’. We sense a strange connection between things no one man could accomplish alone.

As the official ‘Tourism Ambassador for Awaji’s Food Culture’, Kota Ono employs Awaji ingredients in each item of his omakase set menu, paying homage to the island of his birth. He proudly sources not only seafood and wagyu but also soy sauce and even salt from his native Awaji, expounding its charms from the bustle of Kitashinchi. Luxury foods of the season adorn a large platter, unstintingly served in hearty portions. The goal is to be a place where flavoursome food is served, without forgetting imagination and playfulness.

Japanese cuisine reflects a spirit of gratitude for the bounty of nature and of prayer for people’s happiness. The chef values that spirit, pouring it into every dish he makes. The menu, woven from annual festivities, unfolds as a tale of the seasons. Skills honed at a ryotei live in the chef’s painstaking preparation and every detail of arrangements. The origins and customary usages of each cup and plate, related by the proprietress, add grace notes to the meal.

Great ingenuity is poured into the menu to fill it with creative cuisine. Sashimi is garnished with condiments such as deep-fried onions and coarsely grated daikon. Fish cuisine is accented with sauces of mushrooms and vegetables. As a born-and-bred Osakan, the chef gravitates toward Naniwa’s traditional vegetables. The meal wraps up with three types of rice dishes: white rice and several accompaniments, pickled fish on rice and seasonal mixed rice. The generosity of free refills ensures that guests leave satisfied.

In Italy, the chef experienced the fierce pride the Italians have in their home regions. Deeply impressed by the unique cuisines of people who produce and consume locally all their lives, he set his sights on combining Japanese sensibilities with Italian cooking. One example is anago carpaccio: deboned conger eel accompanied by tomato and bagna càuda. The focus on seafood derives from his love of the bounty of the sea, learned at his grandmother’s house in Okinoshima.

Freshness is number one with the chef of Pierre, so he focuses on ingredients grown and raised in Japan. The menu only lists the ingredients, encouraging guests to give their imaginations free rein. Japanese seasonings such as mustard and chilli peppers mixed with yuzu zest lend a distinctive accent. French cooking techniques are married with Japanese ingredients, which are then prepared with a light touch. Spellbinding views from the spacious dining room high in a tall building add to the ambience.

This restaurant is planning to move to the address listed below and will reopen on Nov 27th.3-12-20, Fukushima, Fukushima-ku, OsakaNew information will be updated after our inspection.

Piped baroque music and service on trolleys recall the goodness of French restaurants in the old days. As befits a restaurant managed by a Yamanashi winery, grape leaves adorn the walls and the company’s own wines are served. A devotee of classic cuisine, the chef excels in dishes baked in pie crusts, and is generous with sauces. The fruit that decorates the tables can be made into crêpes Suzette.

The name means ‘spirit of fun’ and also refers to the chef’s given name, Shintaro. All occupations have their joys and sorrows, but the chef maintains a spirit of fun. At the same time, he never forgets reverence for tradition. Lacquered wooden trays and dishes garnished with flowers convey each season. Self-expressive yet respectful of traditional boundaries, his goal is the evolution of Japanese cuisine. Cuisine is a mirror of the soul; joy itself.

At this sister location to a Hiroshima restaurant, a chef who honed his skills in Italy displays his talents. Ingredients are from around the Kinki region as well as the chef's beloved Hiroshima. Italian fare is the base, overlaid with French influences from the flagship restaurant, resulting in a seamless blend of French and Italian recipes. Potato gnocchi is the signature dish. Its culinary roots, so important that the name is spelled with an extra ‘o’, extend deep into both Hiroshima and Nakanoshima.

The unique menu follows a maxim the chef learned as an apprentice: ‘Good food is easy to understand, easy to eat, and delicious’. Carefully limiting the ingredients of each dish, he combines them in clever ways to draw out their special charms. Rice dishes bring the meal to a close, chosen from an extensive list that includes white rice served at the perfect point, seasonal takikomi-gohan, and a rice bowl crowned with ginger-scented, sweet-soy simmered beef. ‘Inaya’ means ‘House of Rice’; a name filled with a love and respect appropriate for the Land of Abundant Rice.

With a spirit of gratitude, Toshimitsu Sawada explains his menu like a storyteller. Like the chef, the hostess and apprentice pour their souls into their work, creating food to satisfy hearts as well as stomachs. Appetiser platters expressing scenes of mountain villages and hotpots for sharing attest to Sawada’s schooling in the restaurants of Shiga. Rice dishes in clay pots are deliciously accompanied and come with noodles. A delight from beginning to end.

The owner-chef focuses on the blessings of nature to bring out the unvarnished flavours of his ingredients. He starts off each meal by presenting the items that have arrived that day. In support of the producers who underpin Osaka’s food, he applies his skills to the traditional vegetables of Naniwa. Past experience at a fishmonger also enables him to source high-quality seafood. He prizes the inherent flavour of each ingredient above all, so keeps arrangements simple. Antique tableware highlights seasonal dishes.

‘Sinae’ is an acronym for ‘simple, natural, essence’. The chef presents his cuisine with simplicity, naturally using seasonal domestic ingredients to draw out the essence of each. Cooking like this that respects their aromas and flavours requires delicate preparation. Pure-white vessels take on colour from the foods that grace them, making the white of the margins all the more beautiful. The beige keynote of the dining room enfolds the diner in warmth.

‘Sui’ means ‘green’. The chef chose the name so as not to forget where he came from, as his birth month and the day he went independent were both in the season of fresh green leaves. Having apprenticed under a Naniwa kappo mentor, the chef believes in a Japanese cuisine that thinks outside the box. Guests can choose an extra side dish, with Western‑style options such as crab cream croquettes and beef cutlet also available. Enjoy pairings with not just sake but a selection of wines as well.

Sea bream is marinated in kombu, gizzard shad in vinegar; sushi rice is seasoned with red vinegar and salt. The scrupulous training the chef received as an apprentice pervades every aspect of the restaurant. Nigirizushi begins with pale white-flesh fish. Tuna, served three pieces in succession, leaves an impact. Sushi rice is served on the warm side, the better to bring out the sweetness of the fish oil. Simmered conger eel brings the meal to a close, as in the old days. The restaurant stands on the river’s edge, so you can watch the boats plying the waters below as you dine.

The talent of the faithful proprietor shows in his omakase. Let the knowledgeable proprietress guide you for pairings between sake and food. Nigiri begins with zuke-maguro, a classic Edomae topping. Gizzard shad is first lightly salted, enhancing the flavour. Instead of ginger pickled in sweet vinegar, tsukemono made with seasonal vegetables are served to provide variation. Adorning the storefront is a shimenawa, a rope of twisted straw, hung here with a prayer for a roaring trade. Guests from throughout Japan and around the world are warmly welcomed, and every evening bustles.

Situated in a quiet residential district, Sushi Sanshin is only open at lunchtime. The naturally lit interior presents an austere charm. The chef is schooled in the old ways of sushi-making, but weaves in a few tricks of his own. For example, the simmered clam nigiri is carefully prepared with precise knife work and finished with a hint of yuzu. The tamagoyaki, placed on top of the rice like a horse's saddle, conceals a touch of oboro within. Norimaki made with herbs to evoke vegetable flavours is a speciality found only here. Pursuit of the new, tempered by respect for the classics.

The movements of the owner-chef’s fingers as he works are a marvel to watch. This deftness is apparent in his side dishes and sushi. His knife technique, informed by a deep understanding of the characteristics of each fish, raises the flavour to a new level. Sushi rice is changed frequently to maintain just the right temperature, that of the human body. Rice is gathered in the palm of the hand as if capturing air. Wasabi, applied with the index finger, is apportioned just right, as is the nikiri. Formed with practiced economy of movement, each nigiri is formed perfectly for true flavour.

‘Good old traditions and colourful, fun Japanese cuisine’ is the credo of owner-chef Shigeru Terada. He works traditional festivals or events into each of his hassun, which he serves with a ready smile. The reason he chooses contemporary plates and bowls is so diners can experience a journey through the present with the artists. Fresh vegetables arrive from his parents in Mie Prefecture, the images on the coaster are painted by his mother, and his elder brother designed the interior.

The owner-chef teases out subtle flavours with a versatile sensibility and technique honed in Kyoto. He takes particular care when blending his dashi. Prepared with a light flavour, it draws out the character of each ingredient. Flavours of other ingredients transfer to the dashi in wanmono, steamed items and takiawase, lending depth to their taste. Preparations are simple, yet unseen tweaks make each item unique. Admire antique serving-ware and vessels fashioned by modern artists as you savour the tastes of the season.

The purely Japanese interior, with its orderly row of lacquer trays, is a setting fit for a kappo. The chef’s kaiseki experience manifests everywhere in the restaurant’s offerings. The name-brand chicken he uses is tender and richly flavoursome. Salt is used with restraint; instead, a light dipping sauce brings out the native flavour of the chicken. Breast meat fried with crumbled rice crackers and rice cooked with seasoned chicken mince are ideas that spring from Japanese cuisine. The restaurant’s name means ‘chicken artisan’, and it’s not hard to see why.

On the theme of ‘playing with fire’, the chef finds ingenious variations on flame and preparation, resulting in yakitori full of variation and surprises. Smoky aromas billow from wing tips grilled over a wood flame. Helmeted guinea fowl, deep-fried with minimal oil, is an idea borrowed from tempura. Duck is char-grilled and swaddled in ankake sauce. Chicken paté and fruit skewers cleanse the palate between courses. You never know what’s coming next, and that’s part of the fun.

The ‘Japanese Jidori’ on the coasters means chicken breeds native to Japan. The chef takes pride in using only such chicken, never mixing them with foreign breeds. The concept here is to eat the entire bird. Rare cuts of chicken are shared between two diners, which is why reservations are only accepted for groups of two or more. To ensure that guests savour the richness of the chicken to the full, there are no dipping sauces. Respect for food producers and passion for yakitori pervade every aspect of Torisen.

The menus are focused on words associated with the traditional calendar; ingredients are plotted on a map of Japan to show which items come from where. The proprietor and his cooks begin by introducing the ingredients then work as a team to prepare the meal, presenting freshly cooked aromas and flavours. Strict attention is paid to temperature and texture. The choice of serving vessels and presenting food on paper or leaf garnishes convey hallowed customs in Japanese cuisine. The flavours of the season are savoured with the calendar never far from your mind.

In a previous life, this was a sushi shop. The second-generation owner-chef, preparing food at the counter left over from earlier days, apprenticed at a wholesaler, then at a ryotei, before hanging out his shop curtain as a fugu (puffer fish) chef. Wild-caught tora fugu arrive from Shimonoseki. Fugu sashimi arranged in a floral pattern called botan-zukuri is arrayed on celadon plates, and chirinabe hotpots followed by zosui rice gruel are prepared by the book. Patiently aged homemade ponzu sauce, appetisers of fugu skin or jellied fugu, and stone-grilled fugu show off the chef’s individuality and spirit.

Simple fare that speaks straight to the heart is the objective here. Fritters are deep-fried one by one in a quest for that instant of perfect flavour. Pasta is interpreted through Japanese ingredients. Japanese sea bream grilled in pie crust ventures outside the Italian cuisine box. The name of the house is an amalgam of the first letter of Yamamoto, the chef’s surname, plus ‘unico’, Italian for ‘unique’. Free imagination lends a unique spin to natural flavours.

Abundant seasonal foods reflecting the bounty of Japan in plates and bowls, while refined preparations following Japan’s old lunisolar calendar prove the worth of ryotei experience. A range of carefully selected sakes are available; a collection of antique glassware sets off drinks and dishes in a cheerful light. ‘Zeshin’ abbreviates a phrase meaning ‘believe in your path and follow it wholeheartedly, always asking whether a thing is right or wrong’. The restaurant’s wish is to impart the joy of eating.